The ghani (oil extraction plant) set up by Mahatma Gandhi at
Sewashram in Wardha, Maharashtra, has been a visible and working symbol
of a self-reliant community since 1934. This living legacy is now in
danger of shutting down.
Image & Article courtesy : The Hindu Business Line |
Ghanis have been around since
ancient times. Food historian KT Achaya dates the use of sesame oilseeds
to the Harappan civilisation around 2000 BC. The ghani entails a
symbiotic relationship between farmers who grow oilseeds and consumers
looking for fresh, healthy, cold-pressed oil. This rustic, grassroots
enterprise today finds itself on the wrong side of modern food safety
regulations.
Under the Food Safety and Standards Act, 2006, all
oil producers, regardless of size, have to maintain a laboratory and
employ two technicians to test samples — a requirement that the small,
village-level units can ill-afford, leaving the threat of imminent
closure hanging over them.
“Ghanis will stay if the
government acts, if it decides not to apply industrial norms to a
cottage industry,” argues Vibha Gupta, Director of Magan Sangrahalaya at
Sewashram.
In 1998, after mustard oil adulteration killed 60 and
poisoned thousands, the government responded with a nationwide ban on
the sale of unpackaged edible oils. New regulations made by the Food
Safety and Standards Authority of India (FSSAI) in 2011 are being
enforced now, dealing the latest blow to the already ailing ghani. For the teli
or oil presser community across the country, this also has a direct
bearing on their livelihood. Prime Minister Narendra Modi is probably
the most famous member of the ghanchi (oilseed crushers) community.
“Traditionally,
villages across the country have had communities of oil pressers, who
crush oilseeds to provide oil on demand and also buy produce from
farmers to sell to wholesalers,” explains Nalin Kant, a grassroots
activist from Jharkhand.
Refined oil manufacturers have been
blending vegetable oils with cottonseed oil. According to the
International Service for the Acquisition of Agri-biotech Applications
(ISAAA), a lobby for biotech crops, cottonseed oil makes up 13.7 per
cent of edible oil in India. As more than 90 per cent of the cotton
grown in the country is genetically modified Bt cotton, the oil is being
used in violation of laws. Genetically modified food has not been
cleared for human consumption in India.
The FSSAI regulations do not make any distinction between the cold-pressed oil from a ghani and the solvent extraction used by larger oil manufacturers. “A ghani is not a very profitable operation, it is more like a service provider, that helps rural folk,” explains Gupta. In a ghani,
oilseeds are crushed to extract the oil, which is markedly different
from the chemical solvent extraction method used by most commercial oil
manufacturers. A ghani may use electricity for the crushing,
although many units still use bullocks to turn a manual crushing
contraption, whose simple design has remained unchanged over centuries.
Cold-pressed
oil has lately grown in popularity for its perceived health benefits,
so it commands a premium price globally. The village ghanis,
however, have not gained in any way. Environmental activist Vandana
Shiva blames this on the ignorance of the new middle-class and its blind
infatuation with the West. “If someone sells cold-pressed oil from
Italy, they will flock to it. They come looking for quinoa when we have
amaranth, buckwheat and ragi,” she says.
Olive oil manufacturers
were the first to market the benefits of cold-pressed, virgin oil. This
form of extraction retains the oil’s flavours and nutrients, which are
otherwise destroyed in high-temperature refining processes. “Rural
consumers have been suspicious of oil that does not taste and smell like
oilseeds; the world is learning of its benefits now,” says Gupta.
In 1993, Achaya discovered that from a 96 per cent share at the beginning of this century, ghanis
accounted for only four per cent of the oil sold in India. This figure
is even lower today. This has also meant a drastic fall in the supply of
nutritious oil cakes (residue after extraction) for cattle feed. India
today imports more than 60 per cent of its edible oil and oil cakes for
cattle feed, losing precious foreign exchange in the process.
Hexane,
used to extract oil from soya bean and even oilseeds, is toxic to
humans. Subsidies enjoyed by the soy and palm industries in Malaysia and
Indonesia make it impossible for ghanis to compete with them.
Navdanya, a non-profit that promotes biodiversity, has launched a nationwide satyagraha on January 30 to save the ghani from a certain death.
Across villages, grassroots activists are raising awareness on the many benefits of locally produced oil. “The support that ghanis
need from the government is recognition, that this is a highly skilled
work, and this is the purest oil that you can get,” says Shiva.
“We
have suffered the village oilman to be driven to extinction and we eat
adulterated oils,” Gandhi had lamented at a gathering in Indore in May
1935.
Eight decades on, his words still ring true.source : The Hindu Business Line
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